Applying the proper settings and using the correct backings or stabilizers are extremely important when you are creating an embroidery design to be sewn onto the soft stretchy wicking shirts.

I have had many requests from embroiderers wanting to know how to embroider on these soft stretchy wicking shirts.  The main issue is trying to keep the embroidery from puckering and pulling.   These shirts should be treated like any other knit shirt, using a small ballpoint needle.  I never use more than a 70/10 needle for this application.  If the lettering is tiny, I will use a 65/10 ballpoint needle and if this is the case, I also use the 60 weight thread.

Adding Embroidery Underlay And Pull Comp Settings

Your underlay settings are going to depend on your design, such as the size of the lettering or the segments within the design.  I have found that if I am creating a design with lettering that if over 1.5 millimeters in column width, I will use an edge run or contour stitch along with a zig zag stitch for my underlay.  The pull comp will vary, depending on how stretchy or fine the fabric actually is.  This is something that you must experiment with.

If the letter is less than 1.5 millimeters in width, I have found that it is best to use one pass of a center run or perpendicular underlay.   Sometimes the zig zag underlay is also necessary and sometimes not, again it all depends on the fabric itself.  Trial and error is the only way to find this our for sure.

Keep Embroidery Density Light

Keeping your embroidery stitch density on the light side is also very important.  It is actually better to use more underlay and less top stitching than little underlay and heavy density.  You do not want to take a chance on creating any holes in this fabric.  It runs and snags very easily!

Use Correct Embroidery Backings Or Stabilizers

The proper backings technique that I have found that works ideally every time is 2 layers of No Show cutaway backing along with 1 layer of a crisp medium weight tearaway.  The tearaway is placed next to the skin so that it can be ripped away.  This layer of tearaway helps to hold the lettering and keep it crisp and clean while the no show backing or stabilizer will keep it soft and pliable.  I also use a topping for these shirts.  Not only does it help to keep the thread on top of the garment, it also acts as a lubricant as it is sewing through this troublesome fabric.  I have embroidererd these soft stretchy wicking shirts many times using these settings and backing techniques with great success!

I hope that this answers the questions that I have been receiving from many embroiderers.  Are you having any issues embroidering on these shirts?  Have you found any other tips that work great for this application, please share them.  Please click on the link that says No Comments and leave your comment or question.  I really would appreciate it.  It will help many other embroiderers!

Joyce Jagger
The Embroidery Coach

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